Brasserie Les Halles - New York City
This restaurant is now well-known as a result of the efforts of Anthony Bourdain and his Les Halles Cookbook, which I have reviewed in a previous posting. Les Halles has two NYC locations. I visited the original one in Park Avenue twice in the last couple of weeks, preparing, I confess, to encounter something overexposed and oversold. I have to say it is neither.
For elegant décor, Les Halles is not the first place to look. The atmosphere is Stygian, and although it is now smoke-free, years of Gauloises are imprinted on the dark ceiling. The gloom is accentuated by wooden paneling and dim lighting. On my first visit the restaurant was not busy and seated us quickly. Next time we had to wait, despite a reservation, in the bustling foyer, beside the meat counter, dodging servers delivering meals to the glassed-in front area.
The menu is serious bistro fare – although broader in ambition than many Parisian brasseries. My first meal was with a group, which gave a good selection of appetizers to sample. The Foie Gras Poëlé aux Pommes featured foie gras from the Hudson Valley – a pairing of slightly tart apples balancing the rich liver. I had the Rilettes du Boucher – a generous helping of tasty pork and fat, on warm toast. My companions spoke well of the Escargots and the Terrine du Jour. My second visit I tried the Vol au Vent aux Champignons Sauvages - abundant mushrooms in a dark, woody sauce that had slightly too much salt.
The main courses showcase beef – although I was slightly disappointed by an absence of offal. Onglet or hanger steak is more frequent on menus now, and I was tempted to compare with my own. The steak was cut horizontally, as opposed to vertically across the section of the steak. This is the more traditionally correct approach used in France, but it yields a slightly tougher piece of meat to bite into. That said, this was cooked expertly and was accompanied by superb frites, dark and crunchy but soft-centered. If the light had been slightly better I could probably have seen the crystals of salt glistening on top.
On my second visit my wife had the Pieds de Cochon, and my son chose a Steak Tartare, experted put together at our table. The meat was tender without mushiness, and not overwhelmed by the accompanying raw egg, onion and brandy. The Paleron Béarnaise was also an opportunity to try a cut we don’t see in the US, and did not disappoint.
Les Halles makes a point of presenting American beef, which Anthony Bourdain rightly says is vastly superior to its French equivalent, as part of traditional French cuisine. Many bistros in France serve meat that is lamentably tough, so Les Halles offers a rare opportunity to occupy the two worlds at their best. The menu is packed with interesting choices, and selection is difficult. I would have liked to try the cassoulet, the choucroute and the duck.
The wine list is interesting and good value – fairly traditional in emphasis, with nods to both to less traveled regions such as Madiran, and to the expensive end of Bordeaux. We had two bottles of Pomerol one time and subsequently a bottle of Chateau Cardonne, a 2000 Médoc – an excellent wine at $45. The also have well-priced Sauternes by the half-bottle.
Les Halles is not a bank-breaker by any means – in fact for New York this is exceptional value. Three people can eat well for $140 plus tip. This kind of cooking owes more to craft than art and nothing to artifice. There is no solemn maitre d’ and a complete absence of bombast. Perhaps not an ideal first date place, particularly if one is trying to convey an impression of refined asceticism. People come here to eat, not to talk or be seen. In fact conversation is occasionally quite difficult and the tables are closely packed. Although brasserie cuisine is now common, even chic, it is not at all easy to do this kind of food well. Les Halles is probably not everyone’s idea of a great restaurant, but to me it is represents close to a perfect expression of a great tradition.
For elegant décor, Les Halles is not the first place to look. The atmosphere is Stygian, and although it is now smoke-free, years of Gauloises are imprinted on the dark ceiling. The gloom is accentuated by wooden paneling and dim lighting. On my first visit the restaurant was not busy and seated us quickly. Next time we had to wait, despite a reservation, in the bustling foyer, beside the meat counter, dodging servers delivering meals to the glassed-in front area.
The menu is serious bistro fare – although broader in ambition than many Parisian brasseries. My first meal was with a group, which gave a good selection of appetizers to sample. The Foie Gras Poëlé aux Pommes featured foie gras from the Hudson Valley – a pairing of slightly tart apples balancing the rich liver. I had the Rilettes du Boucher – a generous helping of tasty pork and fat, on warm toast. My companions spoke well of the Escargots and the Terrine du Jour. My second visit I tried the Vol au Vent aux Champignons Sauvages - abundant mushrooms in a dark, woody sauce that had slightly too much salt.
The main courses showcase beef – although I was slightly disappointed by an absence of offal. Onglet or hanger steak is more frequent on menus now, and I was tempted to compare with my own. The steak was cut horizontally, as opposed to vertically across the section of the steak. This is the more traditionally correct approach used in France, but it yields a slightly tougher piece of meat to bite into. That said, this was cooked expertly and was accompanied by superb frites, dark and crunchy but soft-centered. If the light had been slightly better I could probably have seen the crystals of salt glistening on top.
On my second visit my wife had the Pieds de Cochon, and my son chose a Steak Tartare, experted put together at our table. The meat was tender without mushiness, and not overwhelmed by the accompanying raw egg, onion and brandy. The Paleron Béarnaise was also an opportunity to try a cut we don’t see in the US, and did not disappoint.
Les Halles makes a point of presenting American beef, which Anthony Bourdain rightly says is vastly superior to its French equivalent, as part of traditional French cuisine. Many bistros in France serve meat that is lamentably tough, so Les Halles offers a rare opportunity to occupy the two worlds at their best. The menu is packed with interesting choices, and selection is difficult. I would have liked to try the cassoulet, the choucroute and the duck.
The wine list is interesting and good value – fairly traditional in emphasis, with nods to both to less traveled regions such as Madiran, and to the expensive end of Bordeaux. We had two bottles of Pomerol one time and subsequently a bottle of Chateau Cardonne, a 2000 Médoc – an excellent wine at $45. The also have well-priced Sauternes by the half-bottle.
Les Halles is not a bank-breaker by any means – in fact for New York this is exceptional value. Three people can eat well for $140 plus tip. This kind of cooking owes more to craft than art and nothing to artifice. There is no solemn maitre d’ and a complete absence of bombast. Perhaps not an ideal first date place, particularly if one is trying to convey an impression of refined asceticism. People come here to eat, not to talk or be seen. In fact conversation is occasionally quite difficult and the tables are closely packed. Although brasserie cuisine is now common, even chic, it is not at all easy to do this kind of food well. Les Halles is probably not everyone’s idea of a great restaurant, but to me it is represents close to a perfect expression of a great tradition.
posted by William @ 7:25 PM
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