Goose
When I was young(er) our family always had turkey for Christmas, but we didn’t celebrate Thanksgiving where we were, so this meant that we were not doomed to turkey more than once a year. Having had our Thanksgiving turkey this year we have to decide what to eat for Christmas dinner. A small and unscientific poll at my office suggests that only a few people endure turkey twice within five weeks. There are many things to be said it. It is difficult to cook without turning the breast into cotton wool just when the legs are done. Its near-spherical shape means that stuffing cooks slowly inside the bird, which according to some is a health hazard. The meat is lean so tends to be a bit dry. Finally, the average turkey is so huge that for all but the largest families there is a daunting pile of leftovers.
There are several popular alternatives to turkey. Ham is a favorite, but it can often be a bit salty. A standing rib roast is also popular but not everyone wants it cooked the same amount. Pheasant is in season now and good for a small group, although they can be tough and full of shot. I have never cooked venison, but I am told it isn’t easy because of the very lean meat . I think of lamb as best in spring, and so not a good winter dish. This is probably completely false, but I remain a bit prejudiced against it for Christmas. There are more exotic options. When we lived in Pittsburgh we used to see elderly Italians buying their traditional Christmas octopus in the city market. Barring all of these, the option that more people should consider is roast goose.
Goose used to be the European Christmas dish. Dickens talks sentimentally about goose in The Christmas Carol. Goose features in Conan Doyle (The Blue Carbuncle describes a valuable gem concealed inside a Christmas goose). The bird has a lot going for it beyond Victorian tradition – generally not a trustworthy guide in matters of food, anyway. A goose isn’t huge, so you aren’t eating it for a week. It cooks reasonably quickly, it doesn’t dry out and it goes well with many different types of stuffing. There are many interesting and reliable recipes for goose in standard cookbooks, and provided you don’t completely overcook it, goose will always taste excellent, albeit a little richer and more filling than turkey. If you are careful you can get a goose to render an impressive amount of useful fat – an excellent medium for sautéing. Any meat left over is very good cold.
Goose has a few drawbacks. A deceptively large bird will feed comparatively few. Don’t plan on seating fourteen unless you have two geese. A goose is more expensive than turkey. (Mine was around $3.60 per pound). It is needs careful cooking to render the fat from the skin and it can be tricky to carve due to its elongated shape. Goose doesn’t pack on the pounds as co-operatively as a young turkey does, so has escaped the mass-production process – but this is another argument in its favor. It seems difficult to get a fresh goose, at least where I live.
You need to plan the meal around the goose. What you eat with it should reflect the fact that goose has a higher proportion of fat than turkey. Goose plus gratin dauphinoise potatoes and chestnuts wrapped in bacon all under hollandaise sauce will induce nausea and will close arteries around the table. Boiled potatoes, slow-cooked red cabbage and green vegetables go well, but I also like a Julia Child’s sausage and apple stuffing recipe, which isn’t exactly low-fat. Sauces should be on the lighter side.
What to drink? Goose goes well with reasonably assertive dry whites, but can handle and justify high-end red.
There are several popular alternatives to turkey. Ham is a favorite, but it can often be a bit salty. A standing rib roast is also popular but not everyone wants it cooked the same amount. Pheasant is in season now and good for a small group, although they can be tough and full of shot. I have never cooked venison, but I am told it isn’t easy because of the very lean meat . I think of lamb as best in spring, and so not a good winter dish. This is probably completely false, but I remain a bit prejudiced against it for Christmas. There are more exotic options. When we lived in Pittsburgh we used to see elderly Italians buying their traditional Christmas octopus in the city market. Barring all of these, the option that more people should consider is roast goose.
Goose used to be the European Christmas dish. Dickens talks sentimentally about goose in The Christmas Carol. Goose features in Conan Doyle (The Blue Carbuncle describes a valuable gem concealed inside a Christmas goose). The bird has a lot going for it beyond Victorian tradition – generally not a trustworthy guide in matters of food, anyway. A goose isn’t huge, so you aren’t eating it for a week. It cooks reasonably quickly, it doesn’t dry out and it goes well with many different types of stuffing. There are many interesting and reliable recipes for goose in standard cookbooks, and provided you don’t completely overcook it, goose will always taste excellent, albeit a little richer and more filling than turkey. If you are careful you can get a goose to render an impressive amount of useful fat – an excellent medium for sautéing. Any meat left over is very good cold.
Goose has a few drawbacks. A deceptively large bird will feed comparatively few. Don’t plan on seating fourteen unless you have two geese. A goose is more expensive than turkey. (Mine was around $3.60 per pound). It is needs careful cooking to render the fat from the skin and it can be tricky to carve due to its elongated shape. Goose doesn’t pack on the pounds as co-operatively as a young turkey does, so has escaped the mass-production process – but this is another argument in its favor. It seems difficult to get a fresh goose, at least where I live.
You need to plan the meal around the goose. What you eat with it should reflect the fact that goose has a higher proportion of fat than turkey. Goose plus gratin dauphinoise potatoes and chestnuts wrapped in bacon all under hollandaise sauce will induce nausea and will close arteries around the table. Boiled potatoes, slow-cooked red cabbage and green vegetables go well, but I also like a Julia Child’s sausage and apple stuffing recipe, which isn’t exactly low-fat. Sauces should be on the lighter side.
What to drink? Goose goes well with reasonably assertive dry whites, but can handle and justify high-end red.
posted by William @ 3:42 PM
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