Sunday, December 25, 2005

Le Meurice and L’Ardoise

I have a link to Chez Pim on the right, because this year she pointed me towards two excellent restaurants in Paris, Le Meurice, and L’Ardoise. The first is the 2-star restaurant in the Hotel Meurice, serious French cuisine at its best. The dining-room is spectacular and the service is faultless, but both are over-shadowed by the food. The nine-course menu dégustation (€170) is a virtuoso display by the 35-year old chef Yannick Alléno. It carefully takes you through a series of exquisitely prepared dishes that were each surprising but seemed exactly right at that point in the meal. A single foie gras poached in red wine was the only dish that our daughter passed to her brother. The three-course dessert selection was gorgeously presented and delicious. (Le Meurice has an entertaining web site.)

L’Ardoise comes from the opposite spectrum in cost but is also outstanding in its category. The restaurant is in two stories of an unfancy dining-room, and is somewhat on the tourist track in the 1eme. (The location on rue du Mont-Thabor is just behind the Hotel Meurice). The food is considerably beyond regular bistro fare both in the choices available and the quality. The first time there I ate a starter of marinaded Mediterranean sardines followed by sweetbreads and a potato galette. I have returned several times and have never been disappointed. The prix-fixe menu is €33 which is a complete steal for food of this variety and quality.

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