Thursday, February 16, 2006

Chateau Peyre-Lebade

New regulations adopted in summer 2003 established 247 Cru Bourgeois in the Médoc in three classifications: cru bourgeois exceptionnel, cru bourgeois supérieure, and cru bourgeois. This is an extension on the bottom end of the 1855 classification of five categories of grands cru classés which includes only 61 chateaux, and replaces a somewhat chaotic system of cru bourgeois classifications. This list of 308 chateaux is some indication of the extent of high-quality wine produced in the Médoc.

Many of the crus bourgeois are famous: Phélan-Ségur and Chasse-Spleen for example (both exceptionnel). Chateau Peyre-Lebade is a plain cru bourgeois. The chateau was bought by Baron Edmond de Rothschild in 1979, and has been the subject of major renovation and investment. The wine is a little obscure – it doesn’t seem to be very widely available – and certainly isn’t as famous as the other Rothschild wines. The label design adheres to the Rothschild family style of black and red text with an engraving, all on a cream background.

The wine is predominantly Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It is quite tannic, a little unappealing initially, but became softer with time in a decanter. A smooth and imposing wine emerged after about an hour, very balanced and round. No enormous length, but nothing abrupt or harsh, and not overly alcoholic. I would guess that Peyre-Lebade will age very well, and it isn’t clear how much of what comes in this bottle is from the great year – 2000 – or intrinsic excellence at the chateau, but in either case this is a very pleasurable drink. Not cheap, but excellent value at $19.99

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